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Land Rover Defender 110 

station wagon and commercial

iNSTALL PREP INFO

before you arrive

Prior to your install here at the farm, we want to make sure you have all the information available to complete the nessecary prep work. ​Please read through all the info below and if you have any questions please drop us an email.

​Please take the time to read through the below install prep for your specific vehicle.​

 

As a general rule of thumb we recommend a full clean down, removal of all non standard parts / accessories, sound deadening, insulation, then carpet work last. this ensures best coverage and prep of all stages.

 

After you have completed this prep work we ask for some photos of your van so we can brief the installers prior to your arrival on exactly what to expect. â€‹ If your van isn't quite ready please send images anyway with a follow up email stating what works are going to be carried our prior to your arrival at the farm.

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​There are on certain occassions where we will under take the prep work here at the farm, if this has been pre discussed, paid for and time allocated then you can ignore a vast majority of this page, however all accessories and additional "Defender" modifications to the interior must be removed, as we will not be responsible for this.

 

  • Photo from rear doors

  • Photo from rear passenger doors if it's a station wagon

  • Exterior image (showing the entire van)

  • photo's all internals, floor, walls, ceiling, rear walls and rear door from the inside

 

You can send us these images by clicking the submit images button​

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floor/walls

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There are two versions of our floor for two different types of Defender 110, station wagon and commercial.

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110 Commercial

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the floor should be cleaned down and free of any seat brackets, D-rings, seat belt bolts / hardware.

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We recommend laying 2mm Dodo Mat sound deadening wherever you prefer, followed by 7mm Dodo Mat Pro Liner adhesive insulation on top. You don’t need battens - so don't worry about bonding any of these down. the 7mm insulation should be stopped circa 50mm clear of the door opening on all faces.

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Defenders are relatively noutorious for leaks, so if your doors seals aren't in great condition now is a good time to attend to this and replace them.

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Areas of Note:​

  • where the floor meets the rear door, this should be cleaned, sound deadened, and a strip of carpet work circa 50 - 100mm from the rear threshold into the vehicle

  • the wheel arch tubs extend to meet the rear door apperture, these should be as above, sound deadened, and carpeted, the door stay on the drivers side should be carpeted around or removed, surface carpeted and refitted

  • bulkhead - this can be left clear if in good condition but will be visable in most builds, so ideally sound deadened and carpeted. ​

  • the wheel arches, these should be sound deadened, insulated and carpeted. the carpet should wrap around the tub join and up onto the wall circa 50mm, then down onto the wheel arch tub, over this down the front inside face circa 50mm, please see detailed photos below

  • if you have windows fitted in the rear walls (side walls, rear quarters and alipine), these should be carpeted around circa 100mm too. We build nice features around these but sometimes there might be a little bit visable through any apperture so this is just to make sure everything is nice and tidy

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Please bring any excess materials (mainly carpet to colour match), and if we need to do bits and bobs it will be a seamless addition to your prep work.

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Additional Information:


We’ve included images below showing examples of good preparation, as well as a defender with a fully installed floor, walls, and ceiling to illustrate what is visible after installation.

See our image examples for the ideal prep work: sound deadening and insulation securely applied with the D-ring threaded holes exposed. We love seeing this kind of preparation!

 

LINKS

7mm insulation from Kiravans

2mm sound deadening

Thermal Fill 35mm van insulation

floor/walls
110 Station Wagon

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​The floor should be cleaned down and free of any seat brackets, D-rings, seat belt bolts / hardware.

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our flooring system in a station wagon extends the tub floor at the same level out and over the footwell where the first row of rear passenger seats are, this creates a nice tunnel storage area from one side passenger door to the other.

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We recommend laying 2mm Dodo Mat sound deadening wherever you prefer, followed by 7mm Dodo Mat Pro Liner adhesive insulation on top. You don’t need battens - so don't worry about bonding any of these down. the 7mm insulation should be stopped circa 50mm clear of the rear door opening. All areas close to the doors ideally should be carpeted with a nice smooth finish at the doors. 

​

Defenders are relatively noutorious for leaks, so if your doors seals aren't in great condition now is a good time to attend to this and replace them.

​

Areas of Note:​

  • where the floor meets the rear boot door, this should be cleaned, sound deadened, and a strip of carpet work circa 50 - 100mm from the rear threshold into the vehicle

  • the wheel arch tubs extend to meet the rear door apperture, these should be as above, sound deadened, and carpeted, the door stay on the drivers side should be carpeted around or removed, surface carpeted and refitted

  • the areas where the first row of rear seats used to be should be free of any seat bracket hardware, this can then be sound deaded and carpeted as above. The vertical surface leading up to the front seats can be left free of any materials and clean. The flat bottom and vertical towards the rear tub from the footwell, should be sound deadened, insulated, and carpeted. ​

  • the wheel arches, these should be sound deadened, insulated and carpeted. the carpet should wrap around the tub join and up onto the wall circa 50mm, then down onto the wheel arch tub, over this down the front inside face circa 50mm, please see detailed photos below

  • if you have windows fitted in the rear walls (side walls, rear quarters and alipine), these should be carpeted around circa 100mm too. We build nice features around these but sometimes there might be a little bit visable through any apperture so this is just to make sure everything is nice and tidy

​

Please bring any excess materials (mainly carpet to colour match), and if we need to do bits and bobs it will be a seamless addition to your prep work.

​

sometimes customers may be wanting to leave stadard wall plastic trim and roof liners in, if they are not having them as part of the package. This is absolutely okay and will have been discussed before ordering, however prep work with regards to this is minimal - if you prefer and can remove these panels and sound deaden and insulate behind, then refit. It will just be the floor prep to adhere to. 

​​​​

Additional Information:


We’ve included images below showing examples of good preparation, as well as a defender with a fully installed floor, walls, and ceiling to illustrate what is visible after installation.

See our image examples for the ideal prep work: sound deadening and insulation securely applied with the D-ring threaded holes exposed. We love seeing this kind of preparation!

 

LINKS

7mm insulation from Kiravans

2mm sound deadening

Thermal Fill 35mm van insulation

ceiling

We manufacture two types of ceiling for defenders, a contoured panel ceiling for standard height roofs, and a clad panel for pop top roof conversion (alucab and aw 4x4).

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If you have a pop top roof, you do not need any prep, it will come with a carpet finish as standard and we will clad ontop of this. however please do send us some photos through the link above for us to clarify just in case.

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standard height roofs... 

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Sound Deadening and Insulation:


We mount our ceiling panels directly to the rib structures of your defenders roof. All areas between these ribs can be sound deadened and insulated. However, your ceiling will be installed at the lower level of the ribs, so avoid packing excess insulation into these spaces. While not essential, you may also choose to carpet over the ribs for a clean and tidy finish.

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Front Section (Cab Headliner):


your factory cab headliner above the front seats is retained and connected to your new roof panel work

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Wiring for Lights:

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this only applies to standard height roofs (not pop top conversions), if your lights are going to be connected to a leisure battery there needs to be a fusebox for us to tap into. if they are going to be powered from a power pack (ecoflow etc), then we will deal with this for you. 

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Examples and Guidance:
Check out our image examples for the ideal amount of prep work and to see installed ceilings. These images will help you understand what areas will remain exposed and how to achieve the best finish.​​

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